Lately, there’s been some griping that menswear didn’t have much by way of trends this year. That we’ve been stuck in an “everything is fire” mindset for a little too long. To that I say: Look down.
Because increasingly, I’m clocking guys wearing mocs. Not the light brown, shearling-lined slipper kind, but a slightly more elegant, stripped-down take on the style, designed with rubber soles for city life, and structured with the intention to be worn with tailoring and sharp pair of jeans instead of, say, a flannel pajama set.
Take a survey of the footwear on offer this season and you’ll also notice that the humble moc-toe shoe is back in a big way. A design rooted in Indigenous North American footwear, traditional moccasins are crafted out of a single piece of leather, which is then wrapped around a foot mold, and sewn into shape on top with that iconic “moc-toe” raised stitching.
As a result, moc-toes typically have the same slip-on ease as a pair of Vans, making them the perfect shoe for the sneaker guy who’s looking to make more of an effort, without it feeling like an effort to do so at all. Many I classify as a perfect travel shoe: light and flat in a suitcase, but dressy enough for any spontaneous, more formal adventures.
Not to be confused with loafers or traditional boat shoes, the current crop of moc-toe shoes—some in soft suede, some in pebbled leather—trade the preppy, aspirational vibes of a penny loafer for a far more relaxed energy. All of these positives mean there are a ton of plentifully-stocked (and approachably priced) mocs on the market right now. And at least 13 of those pairs are truly formidable options, which are exactly what I’ve gathered below.
Saman Amel City Moc
I’d wager that the undisputed shoe of the year is Saman Amel’s City Moc, which is slated to be restocked for the third or fourth time due to excessively high demand. Stockholm atelier Saman Amel’s handmade-in-Italy moc has a tough, comfortable rubber sole, but on top of it sits a quiet silhouette—no boat shoe-style side lacing here. This means they can play with a suit as well as some Dickies, and it’s exactly that versatility that has had so many folks willing to fork out the admittedly eye-watering $630 for a pair.
Quoddy Maliseet Oxford
What truly sets Quoddy’s mocs apart—beyond its four eyelets, premium leather upper, and ultra-grippy Vibram sole—is a breathable insole that’s specifically designed for barefoot wearing. The beauty of that? Once you’ve broken these in beautifully over the winter, they’ll be ready and waiting for your sockless summer.
L.L.Bean Handsewn Moccasin
When many people think of Mocs, their first association is with L.L. Bean—and for good reason. Introduced in 1936 by Leon Leonwood Bean himself, the brand’s handsewn (and handsome) Camp Moc currently has over 1,000 five-star reviews testifying to its durability, comfort, and style smarts. And honestly, there’s something almost Miu Miu-esque about the way the leather has been finished—props to the Bean for leaning sophisticated when they could have otherwise gone full Grandpa.
Morjas Boat Shoe
For a similarly pared-back, well-made, elegant moc—only at less than half the price—take a look at Morjas. A Recommends-favorite when it comes to rising shoe brands, the Stockholm-based shoemaker crafts its designs by hand in Italy, in this case adding flexible rubber soles, sanded soft suede leather, and the same three finish options as Saman Amel’s category-definer.
Yuketen Canoe Suede Boat Shoes
Through his Yuketen brand, Japan born, L.A.-based Yuki Matsuda has been making slightly freaked, exceptionally covetable American footwear for years now. He’s perhaps best known for his blucher, but it’s these supple, “canoe suede” stompers—complete with memory foam footbeds—that play right into this moc moment.
Rancourt Classic Ranger Moc
Handcrafted in Maine, Rancourt’s classic Ranger Moc is, by the brand’s own admission, their most comfortable, best fitting design. (In part, that’s thanks to the three-to-four eyelets on the lacing, which hold the foot a little more snugly than two can.) Their original Ranger is still available, but this Huckberry exclusive adds a lug sole for even more comfort and capability on urban adventures.
G. H. Bass x Madewell Ranger Moc
Just as Huck and Rancourt linked up to perfect their Ranger, Madewell and loafer legends G.H. Bass joined forces to create their own. The Wallace suede moc has all the loose, relaxed appeal of a Wallabee, but raised above a stronger, thicker sole for years more durability.
Paraboot Michael Shoe
What hasn’t already been said about potentially the most important shoe in menswear? Well, maybe just that the eternal, goes-with-anything Paraboot Michael has wrongly always been put in the derby category, when it’s actually—with just two eyelets and that unmistakable toe stitching—a total Moccasin.
Sebago James Fringe Lug Derbys
We now enter the world of Moc-style footwear—like these from loafer experts Sebago, which provide all the presence and structure of a classic black derby, only softened at the last second thanks to a Moc toe and fringed kiltie.
Astorflex Carlifex
Blend a Wallabee, Derby, and traditional Moc, and you get Astorflex’s Carlflex shoe. And if those elements alone weren’t enough to win you over, consider that Astorflex—a sixth-generation shoemaker that still crafts entirely by hand, in Italy—has an untouched reputation for combining the comfort and flexibility of rubber soles with the durability and charm of leather uppers.
Vinny’s Michel Mocassin in Black
Alongside Morjas, Denmark’s Vinny’s also earned a nod in Recommends’ top five hard-bottom shoe brands to watch. Their take on the Moc is as close to a loafer as I’ve seen Mocs come—which might also make it the first Moc I can picture striding through the gates of Goldman Sachs.
Clarks Wallabee Derby
Perhaps the most iconic take on the classic moccasin look is the Clarks Wallabee. The distinctive, squared-off moc-toe remains, as does the use of supple suede leather, but Clarks built on a traditional moc by adding a crepe sole and higher ankle, for extra comfort and support. Consistently in production for 57 years now, the shoe has at different times been embraced by 1960s Jamaican “rude boys” and 1980s New York rappers. It’s your turn next.
Red Wing Shop Moc Oxford
Red Wing’s Classic Moc needs no introduction, but its lower profile Oxford Moc just might. Like its taller parent, Goodyear welting means these can be resoled as many times as you’d like. But unlike the OG, the low-top means this is that rare pair of Red Wings you can slip on as you hurry out the door.
What’s the difference between a moccasin and a boat shoe?
Good question. Because all boat shoes come with a moc toe, retailers frequently use the two categories interchangeably. But the answer is that while boat shoes are shoes that are specifically designed for boating—and use the comfort and ease of some moccasin design details to achieve that goal—the world of moccasins is far broader than just boat shoes.
Because moccasins were typically designed for casual, land-based activities, they can come in a far wider range of fabric uppers (suede, for example) and sole materials (crepe, or leather) than boat shoes, which always have to take being on the water into consideration. What’s more, a boat shoe will always look like a boat shoe, no matter the clothing you pair it with. But a moccasin is typically more versatile—it can play formal in darker leathers and lower profiles, or more casual in beefier silhouettes and softer, lighter suedes.
